May 30, 2021

Which Russian Metropolis is Right for You?


Which Russian Metropolis is Right for You?
Onion domes or neoclassical architecture? St. Basil's photo by Anton Zelenov; Hermitage by Pedro Szekely; composite by the author.

While we eagerly await the ability to travel back to Russia, we at Russian Life have been daydreaming and living vicariously through blog posts detailing our favorite spots in the world's largest country. But we haven't yet addressed the elephant in the room: Moscow or St. Petersburg?

In the Russophile community, there's no more polarizing question, and we even asked it of our editors this year. So which one is right to satisfy your wanderlust? Here's our winning picks relating to a series of arbitrary criteria. Oh, and full disclosure: this author is biased towards St. Petersburg, so chances are this analysis will anger some readers. Sorry-not-sorry.

Getting There

Moscow. Moscow's three large airports serve a variety of destinations in Europe ad beyond, and it's an easy train trip to downtown. But be warned: the LAX-Moscow direct flight is very, very long. But St. P's lack of a direct flight has an upside: its airport is surprisingly small, and most flights connect pretty easily through Moscow, Helsinki, or Frankfurt.

Art

St. Petersburg. The Hermitage Museum consistently makes it into the top five museums in the world, alongside the likes of the Louvre and the Met. In the main building complex along the Neva River, you can check out classical sculpture, nineteenth-century portraits, and works by the Italian masters. Across the square is the less-visited but still incredible General Staff building, home to more modern works by Gaugin, Picasso, and Matisse (including "The Dance"). If Ilya Repin is more your thing, the State Russian Museum has you covered.

Hermitage cat
Oh, and did we mention that the Hermitage has the cutest guides? | ewwl, Wikimedia Commons

Nightlife

Moscow. The capital's more chic culture allows for greater flexibility when it comes to dancing and late-night cocktails. The same goes for food: chefs are drawn to Moscow's global reputation, meaning that famous restaurants like the White Rabbit, which serves Russian food with twenty-first-century twists, are more common (No, I'm not still bitter about my reservations that got canceled because of COVID). Petersburg's vibe is more book club than dance club, although the sun-never-sets opportunities during White Nights are nothing to sneeze at.

Cafe-Lingering

Petersburg. There's nothing like poring over a good book — or a new issue of Russian Life — on a rainy Petersburg day with a cup of tea and a sweet pastry. Our favorite spot? The cafe above Dom Knigi right downtown, where you can enjoy your drink overlooking Kazan Cathedral and Nevsky Prospect in a bookstore housed in the old art-nouveau Singer Sewing Machine building. Is the food overpriced? Sure, but we think the window is worth it.

Inside the cafe in Dom Knigi, Petersburg
Mmm, cozy. | Griffin Edwards

Shopping

Moscow. GUM and TsUM have you covered and are robust places to drop plenty of rubles. GUM is a classic department store-turned-indoor-mall right on Red Square; inside you'll find an upscale cafeteria, name-brand stores, and a vintage store selling interesting local foods. TsUM is more of a modern mall with all kinds of fancy name-brand European things you don't need. Although, as of only a few months ago, one of Moscow's most iconic groceries recently passed into the ether, so maybe Petersburg is getting back into the running.

Early Russian History

Surprisingly, Moscow, although St. Petersburg is a close second. Moscow's State Historical Museum (which you've probably seen several times but don't know the name of) houses a fairly good collection of early-history artifacts, like ancient tombs, pagan idols, and medieval weapons; the Kremlin Armory houses more pointy things, as well as royal regalia, thrones, and clothing (and carriages); and there's a recreated Romanov Boyar's house not far from Red Square, all great options for early history. Plus, the Golden Ring of medieval cities are all easy day trips. Petersburg's Hermitage, though, almost singlehandedly makes up for it, with its wealth of archaeological goodies from throughout the Russosphere, and Novgorod is not far by train.

Imperial Glory

Petersburg, hands-down. If you like neoclassical architecture from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, there's no better place, and a stroll down a cold canal is strangely surreal. Plus, there's a plethora of palaces: in the Hermitage, you can check out the spot where Nicholas II kept his library, or where Catherine the Great was married (this list is just reinforcing that the Hermitage is amazing). Churches like St. Isaac's, Kazan Cathedral, and the Church on the Blood are all architectural highlights with rich histories. Those interested in revolutionary history can keep an eye out for the Yusupov Palace, where Rasputin was (almost) killed (multiple times over); Tauride Palace, where the first meetings of the Soviet were held; and the cruiser Aurora, which sounded the shot that started the USSR (or didn't).

Soviet Stuff

Easily, Moscow. Whether it's the Arbat shopping district, Stalin's bunker, or good old VDNKh, Moscow is the place to go if you wanna get back to the USSR. Monuments abound, memorializing everything from cosmonauts to the common man to soldierly dogs. Even the metro hosts hammers and sickles, and mosaics of Lenin and Stalin abound. The State Historical Museum, discussed above, also houses Lenin's Rolls Royce, because communism is about equality.

New Arbat Street
New Arbat Street, poetically including one of Stalin's Seven Sisters and Putin's Moscow City in the left and right backgrounds, respectively. | Anna Anichkova, Wikimedia Commons

Literature

Either, really. It depends on what you're into. A foggy Petersburg twilight is ideal for wandering around with a hatchet in the spirit of Dostoyevsky (don't actually do that, please); strangely warm days recall paradoxical Gogol tales; and Anna Akhmatova's apartment tells the story of an iconic poet. In Moscow, a cheeky sign at Patriarch's Ponds warns visitors not to talk to strangers (lest they be Satan), and Bulgakov's apartment is cool enough to spark the inspiration of your inner author.

Congrats! You're now well-equipped to join in the next meaningless online discussion asserting the values of one of these cities over the other. And, hopefully, we'll all have the opportunity to resolidify our biases with cross-border COVID reopenings soon. If the Pechenegs don't get us first.

You Might Also Like

Beet Top & The Marsh Mushroom
  • May 01, 2003

Beet Top & The Marsh Mushroom

There will always be a rivalry between Russia's "two capitals"--Moscow and St. Petersburg. Since it is St. Petersburg's birthday, we give the floor to a noted journalist from the "Venice of the North," that he might share his thoughts on what sets the two cities apart.
17 Myths of the Revolution
  • November 01, 2017

17 Myths of the Revolution

Every revolution needs its myths. The faithful must 
be inspired; successive generations must be enthused. 
We explore some myths about the “Great October Revolution” that persist even now, 100 years later.
17 Petersburg Places
  • September 01, 2017

17 Petersburg Places

Revolutions, including that Great October one, are not a popular topic in Russia today. Nonetheless, we take a photo feature look at how 1917 shaped Russia’s northern capital.
21 Slices of St. Petersburg Life
  • May 01, 2003

21 Slices of St. Petersburg Life

Thousands upon thousands of pages have been written about Piter during its three centuries of life on the Neva. But what does it take to understand this strange city like a native? These 20 "signs of life" offer a tiny part of the answer.
Moskvarium: Making a Splash at VDNKh
  • January 30, 2021

Moskvarium: Making a Splash at VDNKh

One of the newest VDNKh pavilions is Russia's most dramatic oceanarium, embracing captive orcas even as other countries begin to abandon the practice.
Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of Our Books

Survival Russian

Survival Russian

Survival Russian is an intensely practical guide to conversational, colloquial and culture-rich Russian. It uses humor, current events and thematically-driven essays to deepen readers’ understanding of Russian language and culture. This enlarged Second Edition of Survival Russian includes over 90 essays and illuminates over 2000 invaluable Russian phrases and words.
Chekhov Bilingual

Chekhov Bilingual

Some of Chekhov's most beloved stories, with English and accented Russian on facing pages throughout. 
The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas

The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas

This exciting new trilogy by a Russian author – who has been compared to Orhan Pamuk and Umberto Eco – vividly recreates a lost world, yet its passions and characters are entirely relevant to the present day. Full of mystery, memorable characters, and non-stop adventure, The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas is a must read for lovers of historical fiction and international thrillers.  
White Magic

White Magic

The thirteen tales in this volume – all written by Russian émigrés, writers who fled their native country in the early twentieth century – contain a fair dose of magic and mysticism, of terror and the supernatural. There are Petersburg revenants, grief-stricken avengers, Lithuanian vampires, flying skeletons, murders and duels, and even a ghostly Edgar Allen Poe.
Moscow and Muscovites

Moscow and Muscovites

Vladimir Gilyarovsky's classic portrait of the Russian capital is one of Russians’ most beloved books. Yet it has never before been translated into English. Until now! It is a spectactular verbal pastiche: conversation, from gutter gibberish to the drawing room; oratory, from illiterates to aristocrats; prose, from boilerplate to Tolstoy; poetry, from earthy humor to Pushkin. 
Faith & Humor: Notes from Muscovy

Faith & Humor: Notes from Muscovy

A book that dares to explore the humanity of priests and pilgrims, saints and sinners, Faith & Humor has been both a runaway bestseller in Russia and the focus of heated controversy – as often happens when a thoughtful writer takes on sacred cows. The stories, aphorisms, anecdotes, dialogues and adventures in this volume comprise an encyclopedia of modern Russian Orthodoxy, and thereby of Russian life.
Davai! The Russians and Their Vodka

Davai! The Russians and Their Vodka

In this comprehensive, quixotic and addictive book, Edwin Trommelen explores all facets of the Russian obsession with vodka. Peering chiefly through the lenses of history and literature, Trommelen offers up an appropriately complex, rich and bittersweet portrait, based on great respect for Russian culture.
At the Circus (bilingual)

At the Circus (bilingual)

This wonderful novella by Alexander Kuprin tells the story of the wrestler Arbuzov and his battle against a renowned American wrestler. Rich in detail and characterization, At the Circus brims with excitement and life. You can smell the sawdust in the big top, see the vivid and colorful characters, sense the tension build as Arbuzov readies to face off against the American.
Murder at the Dacha

Murder at the Dacha

Senior Lieutenant Pavel Matyushkin has a problem. Several, actually. Not the least of them is the fact that a powerful Soviet boss has been murdered, and Matyushkin's surly commander has given him an unreasonably short time frame to close the case.
Jews in Service to the Tsar

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955