September 20, 2023

Pilgrimage Under Shelling: "Shana Tova" From Uman


Pilgrimage Under Shelling: "Shana Tova" From Uman
Hassidic Jews celebrating Rosh Hashanah in Uman, Ukraine. Liz Cookman, Twitter.

At nightfall on September 15, families worldwide sweetened apples with honey to celebrate Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Amid Russia's invasion of Ukraine, 35,000 Hassidic Jews pilgrimaged to Uman, Ukraine, to celebrate this holiday at Rabbi Nachman of Breslov's grave.

Every Rosh Hashanah since Rabbi Nachman died in 1810, male followers visit his grave in Uman to celebrate one of the most important holidays in Judaism. Even during the Soviet era, when overt displays of religion were forbidden, Hassidic Jews carried out the pilgrimage in secret, without public displays of prayer.

In 2022 and 2023, the Israeli and U.S. governments advised followers against traveling to Ukraine because of safety concerns, but packed buses still flocked to the city. Uman's street signs were changed from Ukrainian to Hebrew. Social media users posted videos of pilgrims dancing and singing in the city. Believers held a public prayer for Ukraine.

Ukrainian officials set up checkpoints across the city, and extra security measures were enhanced to protect the pilgrims. The Israeli police also participated in security efforts. Yet, according to The Times of Israel, in a meeting with Ukraine's rabbis, President Volodymyr Zelensky said: "I will try to take care of Israelis on their way to Uman. But if Israel were to send [the] Iron Dome, there would be a way to protect those Israelis." 

The festival did not come without inconveniences. One Israeli citizen was arrested after colliding with another car and killing a Ukrainian citizen. Four other Israelis were detained at a checkpoint for cannabis possession.

You Might Also Like

Notes at the Front

Notes at the Front

Musicians have not been spared from the criminalization of protest and expression. We also share Ilya Yashin's final words.
Leave or Die
  • August 15, 2023

Leave or Die

In which we visit a "typical" Siberian town and dig into the issues and people who live there.
To Stay and Survive
  • August 15, 2023

To Stay and Survive

A filmmaker Elizaveta spent months riding Russia’s rails and discussing the war with fellow travelers.
ROC: Pacifism is Heresy
  • June 15, 2023

ROC: Pacifism is Heresy

A Russian Orthodox priest called for peace. In response, the church said pacifism is "incompatible" with Orthodox teachings.
Russian Genealogy
  • June 01, 1997

Russian Genealogy

If you have family roots in Russia, you are in good company. Between 1820 and 1992, according to INS data, some 3,512,332 individuals immigrated to the United States from Russia, most of them around the turn of the century (2.5 mn between 1897 and WWI).
Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of our Books

How Russia Got That Way
September 20, 2025

How Russia Got That Way

A fast-paced crash course in Russian history, from Norsemen to Navalny, that explores the ways the Kremlin uses history to achieve its ends.

Woe From Wit (bilingual)
June 20, 2017

Woe From Wit (bilingual)

One of the most famous works of Russian literature, the four-act comedy in verse Woe from Wit skewers staid, nineteenth century Russian society, and it positively teems with “winged phrases” that are essential colloquialisms for students of Russian and Russian culture.

Steppe
July 15, 2022

Steppe

This is the work that made Chekhov, launching his career as a writer and playwright of national and international renown. Retranslated and updated, this new bilingual edition is a super way to improve your Russian.

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices
May 01, 2013

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod is a mid-sized provincial city that exists only in Russian metaphorical space. It has its roots in Gogol, and Ilf and Petrov, and is a place far from Moscow, but close to Russian hearts. It is a place of mystery and normality, of provincial innocence and Black Earth wisdom. Strange, inexplicable things happen in Stargorod. So do good things. And bad things. A lot like life everywhere, one might say. Only with a heavy dose of vodka, longing and mystery.

Murder at the Dacha
July 01, 2013

Murder at the Dacha

Senior Lieutenant Pavel Matyushkin has a problem. Several, actually. Not the least of them is the fact that a powerful Soviet boss has been murdered, and Matyushkin's surly commander has given him an unreasonably short time frame to close the case.

Murder and the Muse
December 12, 2016

Murder and the Muse

KGB Chief Andropov has tapped Matyushkin to solve a brazen jewel heist from Picasso’s wife at the posh Metropole Hotel. But when the case bleeds over into murder, machinations, and international intrigue, not everyone is eager to see where the clues might lead.

Jews in Service to the Tsar
October 09, 2011

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955