December 01, 2019

City Spotlight: Barnaul


City Spotlight: Barnaul
A view of the city from the Barnaulka river  Alexandra Curtis

Barnaul? What's that? Well... if you're thinking about just looking it up on the internet, don't.

We'll save you the time and tell you that a quick Google search of the city doesn't yield particularly impressive results. Other than a perhaps vastly overzealous article labeling it "The City of the Future," most of the search results draw a much less glorious image. In particular, a Telegraph article titled "Barnaul, I Hated the Place" doesn't exactly inspire wanderlust.

As a modest-sized Russian city of some 600 thousand residents, the city actually has some rather unusual claims to fame. Not only is it the hometown of the Russian spy Maria Butina, but it's also the city where Russian opposition leader, Alexei Navalny was infamously dyed green when assaulted with the Russian medical cure-all "zelyonka."

Despite all of this, Barnaul residents have a lovely sense of city pride. One particularly catchy city anthem chants as its chorus the line, “Barnaul is the capital of the world!” 

So what gives? What makes this seemingly average city so dear to so many? This post offers a more personal, and perhaps fairer, travel review of the city, given by someone who spent a significant amount of time there as an exchange student.

On the off chance you ever find yourself in the less-oft visited Siberian city of Barnaul, here are some places to visit that are well worth your while.

Students pose next to big white letters which spell out "BARNAUL" in cyrillic.
Step aside Hollywood, Barnaul did it better. | Alexandra Curtis, HWS Study Abroad

1. The Park Uphill

Park "Nagorny" is the oldest and most iconic park in Barnaul. Located on the bank of the Ob River, the views are spectacular. Built in the 1960s, the most astonishing part of the park is the set of zig-zagging staircases that lead up to the top of a hill. From there you can get not only an excellent view of the entire city, but you can also pose for a photo among a Hollywood-esque set of giant white letters spelling out the city's name. During the day, the park is full of vendors and people, and at night the letters light up, creating the perfect atmosphere for an evening walk.

Students pose on a city street in front of a statue of Lenin.
Would it be a trip to Russia without a picture with Lenin? | Alexandra Curtis, HWS Study Abroad

2. Lenin Street

Most Russian cities seem to have at least one (or several) streets or public landmarks named for a famous communist leader, and Barnaul is no exception. Going right through the city center, Lenin Street is what would probably be considered Barnaul's main street. Since it is busy with cars and pedestrians, taking a walk down Lenin Street is a great way to get to know the city. Cute coffee shops, stores that sell knock-off Nikes, and various fast-food dives that specialize in shawarma line the sidewalks. In the middle of the road run the ancient but oh-so-charming red and yellow trolley-cars.

A cozy meal of pirozhki, borscht, tea, and sour cream.
A meal fit for a tsar | Alexandra Curtis

3. The Mountain Pharmacy

While a pharmacy is usually the one place a traveler hopes to avoid when traveling, The Mountain Pharmacy in Barnaul completely defies expectations. It's actually a museum about the traditional herbal medicines of the region, historical medical practices, and gastronomical culture. The attached restaurant features Siberian cuisine from the nineteenth century and a classy aristocratic vibe. It is also a real operating pharmacy, and guests can sign up to take classes on herbal and traditional medicine, as well as home crafts and culinary skills. Going to this museum really feels like slipping back in time.

A bright blue antique car and its mannequin assailant.
Cool cars, cooler weather | Alexandra Curtis

4. The Museum of Carjacking

This museum has been included on lists of Russia's most unique museums, and for good reason. This museum is truly unlike anything else in the country, perhaps the world. A little bit off the beaten track, this hidden gem has a hall full of strange instruments used for carjackings, such as Kalashnikov guns, pressure gauges, toilet plungers, and hand radio sets. As you venture further into the museum, you'll find an entire garage full of vintage Soviet cars, motorbikes, and other fun props that reflect the tone of the era. The museum grounds also feature an exhibit on traditional Russian folk culture and an adult toy shop, so there's something for everyone!

Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals
[INVALID]
[INVALID]

Some of our Books

Fearful Majesty
July 01, 2014

Fearful Majesty

This acclaimed biography of one of Russia’s most important and tyrannical rulers is not only a rich, readable biography, it is also surprisingly timely, revealing how many of the issues Russia faces today have their roots in Ivan’s reign.

Jews in Service to the Tsar
October 09, 2011

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.

Woe From Wit (bilingual)
June 20, 2017

Woe From Wit (bilingual)

One of the most famous works of Russian literature, the four-act comedy in verse Woe from Wit skewers staid, nineteenth century Russian society, and it positively teems with “winged phrases” that are essential colloquialisms for students of Russian and Russian culture.

At the Circus
January 01, 2013

At the Circus

This wonderful novella by Alexander Kuprin tells the story of the wrestler Arbuzov and his battle against a renowned American wrestler. Rich in detail and characterization, At the Circus brims with excitement and life. You can smell the sawdust in the big top, see the vivid and colorful characters, sense the tension build as Arbuzov readies to face off against the American.

Russian Rules
November 16, 2011

Russian Rules

From the shores of the White Sea to Moscow and the Northern Caucasus, Russian Rules is a high-speed thriller based on actual events, terrifying possibilities, and some really stupid decisions.

Bears in the Caviar
May 01, 2015

Bears in the Caviar

Bears in the Caviar is a hilarious and insightful memoir by a diplomat who was “present at the creation” of US-Soviet relations. Charles Thayer headed off to Russia in 1933, calculating that if he could just learn Russian and be on the spot when the US and USSR established relations, he could make himself indispensable and start a career in the foreign service. Remarkably, he pulled it of.

Moscow and Muscovites
November 26, 2013

Moscow and Muscovites

Vladimir Gilyarovsky's classic portrait of the Russian capital is one of Russians’ most beloved books. Yet it has never before been translated into English. Until now! It is a spectactular verbal pastiche: conversation, from gutter gibberish to the drawing room; oratory, from illiterates to aristocrats; prose, from boilerplate to Tolstoy; poetry, from earthy humor to Pushkin. 

Marooned in Moscow
May 01, 2011

Marooned in Moscow

This gripping autobiography plays out against the backdrop of Russia's bloody Civil War, and was one of the first Western eyewitness accounts of life in post-revolutionary Russia. Marooned in Moscow provides a fascinating account of one woman's entry into war-torn Russia in early 1920, first-person impressions of many in the top Soviet leadership, and accounts of the author's increasingly dangerous work as a journalist and spy, to say nothing of her work on behalf of prisoners, her two arrests, and her eventual ten-month-long imprisonment, including in the infamous Lubyanka prison. It is a veritable encyclopedia of life in Russia in the early 1920s.

A Taste of Russia
November 01, 2012

A Taste of Russia

The definitive modern cookbook on Russian cuisine has been totally updated and redesigned in a 30th Anniversary Edition. Layering superbly researched recipes with informative essays on the dishes' rich historical and cultural context, A Taste of Russia includes over 200 recipes on everything from borshch to blini, from Salmon Coulibiac to Beef Stew with Rum, from Marinated Mushrooms to Walnut-honey Filled Pies. A Taste of Russia shows off the best that Russian cooking has to offer. Full of great quotes from Russian literature about Russian food and designed in a convenient wide format that stays open during use.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955