December 01, 2019

A thirst for travel... and kefir


A thirst for travel... and kefir
Nothing can stop Leo from traveling the world.

“When you go to New York, you must look up Leo," said my babushka, as my husband and I were packing our bags for a trip to New York back in 2016. "He is the best tour guide there is."

Granny was right: Leo knows everything, because he’s been everywhere, pursuing his enormous curiosity for travel. And not just everywhere in New York City, where he has lived for 44 years, but  to every state of the USA, multiple times, everywhere in the USSR, and to 120 countries, adding his own meaning to the Jewish wish of “until 120.”

Leo in Rio

I had heard about Leo Falk, or Lev Falkovich, for as long as I can remember. My grandmother’s small apartment is packed with cards he’d sent from around the world. I always read them, addressed to my great grandmother and grandmother. They always contained a joke and a warm note, with an image from Antarctica, Brazil, or Italy. He was my hero, and I was very excited to meet him in 2007, when he came to Moscow for a visit, after a trip to the North pole.

Now I am finally writing his story down.

Leo’s first memories are of being on the move. In 1941, at the age of 5, he was evacuated from Kiev and remembers being on a barge with his mom, bombs landing in the water just meters away. His next memory is of being on a train, moving further away from the war.

Returning to Kiev after the war, he finished school and started taking trips to Moscow for his studies and to see his relatives. Soon he started traveling all over the USSR: down the Volga to Astrakhan, up north to the White Sea, by train to Vladivostok, and so on. He even managed to get into places that required a propusk (pass): he would just get off the train nearby and then get on a bus, where no one checked for passes.

Nearly always traveling solo and without much of a budget, Leo would sleep on trains to minimize hotel costs, or sleep in train stations, and survive off kefir and bread. While in the USSR, he dreamed of seeing the rest of the world, but mainly France, Italy, Spain and England...

When he moved to the US, he got a low paying job as an engineer, and after just two and a half years of work asked for an unpaid leave for three months – he wanted to finally see Europe. He didn’t have much money, nor did he have the US passport, which meant that he had to get visas to visit Europe – and he did, all 18 of them. The only one left unused was for Yugoslavia, because he got hit by a train in Greece and lost his right leg. He spent 18 months in hospitals back in the US waiting for a prosthesis, but even that was just a bump in the road. It didn’t stop him from traveling, and he went on to visit 103 countries after that.

2 trips around the world, endless car trips around the US, thousands of cards sent to family and friends, but almost always traveling solo, with little luggage and little money, sleeping anywhere, including once in a telephone booth in Riga, and another time in a mausoleum in Asia.

Man standing at Cape of Good Hope sign.

What drives Leo? Curiosity, armed with scientific precision in planning and little concern for comfort, including food. He loved beans and rice, tapas rellenes, and tamanes in South America, and roti in India. Actually he says he doesn’t remember much what he ate, but my grandmother, who is the biggest foodie I know, says Leo lived on kefir and bread while traveling, and the fact that he doesn't remember is “Leo in a nutshell. Caring about the travel, and not about the food."

Leo says that, once the pandemic is over, if he can get around without a wheelchair, he “must see Japan, South Korea and Taiwan,” parts of the Middle East he hasn’t seen, and Africa is still on the list. After all, he is only “84 years young”, and there’s more of the world to explore.
 

Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of Our Books

The Frogs Who Begged for a Tsar (bilingual)

The Frogs Who Begged for a Tsar (bilingual)

The fables of Ivan Krylov are rich fonts of Russian cultural wisdom and experience – reading and understanding them is vital to grasping the Russian worldview. This new edition of 62 of Krylov’s tales presents them side-by-side in English and Russian. The wonderfully lyrical translations by Lydia Razran Stone are accompanied by original, whimsical color illustrations by Katya Korobkina.
Jews in Service to the Tsar

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.
Chekhov Bilingual

Chekhov Bilingual

Some of Chekhov's most beloved stories, with English and accented Russian on facing pages throughout. 
Driving Down Russia's Spine

Driving Down Russia's Spine

The story of the epic Spine of Russia trip, intertwining fascinating subject profiles with digressions into historical and cultural themes relevant to understanding modern Russia. 
Murder and the Muse

Murder and the Muse

KGB Chief Andropov has tapped Matyushkin to solve a brazen jewel heist from Picasso’s wife at the posh Metropole Hotel. But when the case bleeds over into murder, machinations, and international intrigue, not everyone is eager to see where the clues might lead.
White Magic

White Magic

The thirteen tales in this volume – all written by Russian émigrés, writers who fled their native country in the early twentieth century – contain a fair dose of magic and mysticism, of terror and the supernatural. There are Petersburg revenants, grief-stricken avengers, Lithuanian vampires, flying skeletons, murders and duels, and even a ghostly Edgar Allen Poe.
Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod is a mid-sized provincial city that exists only in Russian metaphorical space. It has its roots in Gogol, and Ilf and Petrov, and is a place far from Moscow, but close to Russian hearts. It is a place of mystery and normality, of provincial innocence and Black Earth wisdom. Strange, inexplicable things happen in Stargorod. So do good things. And bad things. A lot like life everywhere, one might say. Only with a heavy dose of vodka, longing and mystery.
Fish: A History of One Migration

Fish: A History of One Migration

This mesmerizing novel from one of Russia’s most important modern authors traces the life journey of a selfless Russian everywoman. In the wake of the Soviet breakup, inexorable forces drag Vera across the breadth of the Russian empire. Facing a relentless onslaught of human and social trials, she swims against the current of life, countering adversity and pain with compassion and hope, in many ways personifying Mother Russia’s torment and resilience amid the Soviet disintegration.
Marooned in Moscow

Marooned in Moscow

This gripping autobiography plays out against the backdrop of Russia's bloody Civil War, and was one of the first Western eyewitness accounts of life in post-revolutionary Russia. Marooned in Moscow provides a fascinating account of one woman's entry into war-torn Russia in early 1920, first-person impressions of many in the top Soviet leadership, and accounts of the author's increasingly dangerous work as a journalist and spy, to say nothing of her work on behalf of prisoners, her two arrests, and her eventual ten-month-long imprisonment, including in the infamous Lubyanka prison. It is a veritable encyclopedia of life in Russia in the early 1920s.
Turgenev Bilingual

Turgenev Bilingual

A sampling of Ivan Turgenev's masterful short stories, plays, novellas and novels. Bilingual, with English and accented Russian texts running side by side on adjoining pages.
Russian Rules

Russian Rules

From the shores of the White Sea to Moscow and the Northern Caucasus, Russian Rules is a high-speed thriller based on actual events, terrifying possibilities, and some really stupid decisions.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955