Travel Notes

Sky giants unite

After several years of providing competition to former state monopoly airline Aeroflot, Russia’s Transaero company has ended the rivalry by signing a secret memorandum of cooperation. Its contents are believed to include accords on complementary flight schedules and prevention of fare wars. Transaero, which since its inception has been 10% owned by Aeroflot, began by developing domestic flights, though its current growth is due to international expansion. Aeroflot, meanwhile, as the old international division of the state company, is weak on domestic flights. By cooperating more closely, Aeroflot and Transaero will be able to compete more effectively with foreign airlines like Lufthansa, which have recently penetrated deep into the Russian market.

Breaking the ice

ST. PETERSBURG — Russia’s 80-year-old veteran ice-breaker the Krasin is currently being refitted as a floating museum. Built in 1916 in Britain and specially adapted for Russian arctic conditions, the Krasin carried out operations to rescue foreigners in the Far North between the wars, despite Soviet international isolation at the time. During World War Two, it cleared the way for allied convoys supplying the USSR through Arkhangelsk and Murmansk. Once restored in 1950s style, it plans to tour Europe with a display of memorabilia.

Metro expands, modernizes

According to Moscow metro authorities, the city plans a record number of line extensions and stations for the next decade, and a number of heavily used central stations will be given second exits. At the same time, in an effort to simplify ticketing procedures, a magnetic card system is being introduced — a soft typeof card replaces ordinary adult season tickets, while a harder type is being issued to people entitled to free travel. Currently, the latter have to show identification as they pass the inspectors at the barrier, who are expected to be able to identify 53 different types of document.

Pollution crackdown

Moskomprirody, Moscow’s environment committee, has introduced a certification system in an attempt to cut harmful exhaust emissions on the city’s roads. Currently, one quarter of Moscow’s cars give out exhaust which exceeds  accepted levels of carbon and smoke emissions. All state and public transportation vehicles are required  to pass an emission control test, for which they will receive a certificate. Private vehicles are also recommended to take the test every three months, as possession of the certificate will guarantee avoidance of spot checks from traffic police. Cars are currently responsible for 87% of Moscow’s total air pollution.

Dining Out

One of the changes in the last few years most evident to foreigners in Russia has been the boom in places to eat out. In the past, poor service, monotonous fare and constant absence of dishes written on the menu came close to ruining many a Westerner’s holiday or business trip.

Under perestroika, things began to change, with the appearance of joint venture and ‘cooperative’ (i.e. private) restaurants, usually more expensive but at the same time customer-friendly and tastefully arranged. This trickle turned into a flood, and now most major Russian cities have a reasonable variety of eateries for most tastes. In Moscow and St. Petersburg, most cuisines of the world are sufficiently represented.

Every silver lining has a cloud, though, and in this case it is cost. In Moscow, average costs per person per meal have long been in the area of $30-40, and it’s not unusual to find yourself paying over $100. Elsewhere is almost always considerably cheaper, although recently the provinces have begun catching up with the capital.

Choices

Despite Moscow’s abundance of decent Mexican and Chinese restaurants, it is unlikely that you have come to the land of borshch and pelmeni to eat nachos or sweet and sour pork. There is a commonly held belief that Russian food is stodgy and unimaginative — indeed it lacks the rich variety of Southern European cooking or the spicy intrigue of Asian dishes. However, many private restaurants  have now revived culinary delights that were made virtually extinct by the revolution, showing that Russia too has its share of delicacies. Nowadays it will take more than one  holiday to try all the varieties of zharkoye (hotpot) or dishes fit for hussars (po-gusarski) or boyars (po-boyarski).

As you might expect from the names, these dishes are usually very expensive, as is Russian haute cuisine in general. Because such fare is considered an attraction for foreigners, prices are mostly high.

A cheaper option, and one much loved by frequent visitors to Russia, is Caucasian, especially Georgian, cuisine. While there are similarities to Turkish and Middle eastern food, you can also treat yourself to local delicacies like khachapouri (cheese pies)  or lobio (beans in spicy sauce, delicious when hot) and sample delicious wines like Tsinandali (semi-dry white) or Kindzmarauli (semi-dry red). Most major Russian cities now have some kind of Caucasian cafe or restaurant.

For cheaper still or snacks, fast food options are now increasingly convenient in Moscow and St. Petersburg, As well as the usual array of McDonalds, Pizza Hut and other  western chains, Moscow now has the home-grown Russkoye Bistro. Visitors should make a point of visiting this new Russian ‘institution,’ with its delicious pies, kvas on tap, rather chaotic service and liberal policy on alcohol (unlike McDonald’s, they sell miniature bottles of vodka and ‘herbal’ liquor). Note that other cities still have a much more primitive  approach to fast food, with many cafes still leftovers from the Soviet era.

What to do

Reservations: Gone are the days when grumpy doormen angled for bribes, claiming that  there was no room in the restaurant. Now you’re only likely to be turned away if there is genuinely not a table to be had. If in doubt, book — especially on weekend evenings or at a particularly popular restaurant. Always ask for chisty stol (clean table) — if you arrive to find a tantalizing assortment of cold meat, fish and salad on your table, you can expect a hefty bill at the end.

How to spend the evening: While lunchtime eating differs little from in the West, Russians often go for evening meals with the intention of making a night of it. You’ll notice that large quantities of food and drink will be consumed, and at more traditional restaurants there’ll be loud music and dancing in between courses. If you’re looking for a quiet evening, make sure you find somewhere without erotic floor show or discotheque.

Menus: In a traditional Russian restaurant, expect to find hors d’oeuvres, first course (mainly soups, served only at lunchtime), and second course. Bread, and sometimes potatoes and vegetables (garnir) may be listed and priced separately from meat dishes, a possible hidden cost. Note also that many dishes (and liquor) are priced by weight, and a seemingly unpretentiously cheap piece of fish could produce a nasty shock when the bill arrives.

One Soviet leftover is the presence on the menu of those elusive dishes that are absent from the kitchen. This tendency to include any dish that the restaurant has ever had in its menu is still widespread in all but the most exclusive places. As a general rule, anything without a price beside it won’t be available.

If choice is still a problem for meat-eaters, it can be a nightmare for vegetarians. Often, the only chance they have to avoid a meager salad diet is to come to Russia at the height of the mushroom season and hope for the odd meatless hotpot or julienne. Face it — vegetarianism is little understood in Russia.

Whether to pay: as Russians are a hospitable nation, many would expect to pay for a meal for someone they consider their guest themselves. However, financial  difficulties make many restaurant prices prohibitive to all but the most affluent, and it may be wise to offer tactfully to pay, or at least go dutch.

The bill: Some restaurants add on hidden costs unexpectedly — like value added tax or an admission charge for the music — find out about these beforehand so that you know what you’ll really be paying. Service charges can be included, otherwise be prepared to tip around 10-15%. In some remoter places tipping may still not be expected, but it’s always appreciated, and may encourage more favorable treatment if you plan to eat regularly in the same restaurant.

How to pay: Credit cards are now accepted in most major restaurants in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Elsewhere, acceptance is rare, so always check, and carry rubles just in case. Absurdly, a Visa or Amex sign does not necessarily mean these are accepted — it could be just a status symbol or decoration. Never rely on traveler’s checks when making payments, and as with most other businesses, cash dollars are not accepted.

While such advice is essential to avoid unfortunate misunderstandings and problems in Russian restaurants, it won’t protect you from bad ones, of which there are still plenty. While the situation has improved immensely in recent years, the number of dives and mafia hang-outs as, well as top class restaurants, has grown considerably. If possible, get a good idea of which restaurants are worth visiting from fellow travelers or from the extensive literature on the subject. In the provinces you may have more difficulty getting information — here the excitement of discovery should make up for the pitfalls of trial and error! Bon appetit!

— Robert Greenall