Travel Notes

Pskov Dales

According to the Pskov Information Agency, Pskov Region is striving to become an attractive tourist destination. In November, a new hotel will open in the village of Kunya, situated at kilometer 438 on the Moscow-Baltic highway. The hotel will be part of large tourist complex, to include bars, restaurants, a car park, various shops and more. 

Meanwhile, the Pskov Center for Development of Tourism (PCDT) is publishing all sorts of maps and travel itinerary descriptions. The Pskov Regional Tourist Resource Catalogue will include detailed information on hotels, sanatoria, camping and other accommodations, and is aimed at both Russian and foreign tourist agencies. Meanwhile, in September, Pskov for Gourmets was released. It describes Pskov’s cafes, bars and restaurants. “We expect the book to be quite popular,” said PCDT representatives. “Our guests are very interested in national cuisine.”

News of Pushkin

The news site regions.ru reported that a museum of Pushkin characters – “In the World of Belkin’s Tales” – will soon open in Lvovka village, Boldinsky region. On the ground floor of the manor will be a reproduction of the fictional protagonist Ivan Belkin’s sitting room, and another room furnished as it was in Pushkin’s tale, “The Shot.” The first floor will have exhibits devoted to other Belkin tales, including “The Postmaster,” “The Squire’s Daughter” and “The Blizzard.” The exhibits will be replete with antiques from the time of Pushkin. In fact, the poet’s grand-granddaughter, Yulia Pushkina, gave the museum a family relic: a 19th century fan.

The museum also has plans to open an inn featuring early 19th century cuisine, and perhaps to even build a historic village. The museum will open to visitors in January.

Adventure Tourism

According to IA Regnum, Yaroslavl, long a highlight of the “traditional” Golden Ring sightseeing tours, will soon offer a new type of “extreme tourism”: tours of communal flats. In Soviet communal flats (see Russian Life, April/May 1999), several families were crammed together, sharing one kitchen and bathroom. Visitors will be able to meet apartment occupants and listen to their life stories, learn about their secrets, crimes, scandals and celebrations. Tourists will also be able to queue up for the one WC, which may be quite an experience, given that a communal flat might have had as many as 20 residents. This tour will be offered as part of the tourist program, “Our Unknown Country.”

Rail Dreams

The company Russian Rail Roads (RRR) recently suspend their joint venture with Germany’s Siemens. The two firms had planned a high-speed train between Moscow and St. Petersburg, but, as RRR’s Vladimir Yakunin told Itogi magazine, “It was announced on a number of occasions that OAO Russian Rail Roads was starting the project, but in reality we found certain problems in our relationship with tax authorities, as well as technical problems.”

Meanwhile, for a few months now, another of RRR’s projects, the “Capital Express” high-speed train, has been running successfully between Moscow and Kiev. The train’s occupancy rate was 86% during the first month, and on some days reached 95%. “The figures show the efficiency of the new project,” said an RRR press release. The train makes the trip between the capitals in nine and a half hours, compared to a normal 13 or 14, makes only three stops en route, and enjoys streamlined border and customs control procedures. Ticket prices start at R1,088; the most expensive business class ticket is R2,694. 

Bender’s Disciples

IA New Region reported that an inspection by the Ministry for Emergencies, Tax Officials and the Road Police turned up a positively Ostap Benderesque scam at one of the Crimea’s most famous tourist sites: the Dzur-Dzur waterfalls. Investigators found that some enterprising locals were bringing tourists to the waterfalls in badly maintained, aged vehicles. There, other disciples of Bender demanded an inordinate fee, kindly offering discounts for union members and personnel of the Ministry of Internal Affairs. The impostors did not, however, trouble to reinforce the fence surrounding the waterfalls, so sightseers actually risked losing more than their money.

 RUSSIAN CLASSICS

“Sorry, may I ask you a question?”

“Sure.”

“Are these ‘dales’?”

“Pardon me?”

“I am asking: are these ‘dales’?” The man tugged me to the open window.

“In what sense?”

“In the literal sense. I want to know: are these dales or not? If these are not dales, just say so.”

“I don’t understand.”

The man blushed slightly and started to hurriedly explain:

“I had a postcard... I am a Cardophile...”

“How’s that?”

“I am a Cardophile. I collect postcards: ‘phile’ means ‘lover’... and ‘card’...”

“I got it.”

“So I had a color postcard, ‘Pskov dales.’ And thus I came here. So I have to ask: are these dales?”

“Generally speaking, yes,” I said.

“Typical Pskov dales?”

“Rather.”

The man walked away, beaming.

Conservation Area, by Sergei Dovlatov

 RUSSIAN CLASSICS

Actually, the denizens of communal apartment number 3, where Lokhankin resided, were considered to be rather willful. They were notorious throughout the apartment block for their private scandals and bitter squabbles. Apartment number 3 was even nicknamed the “Settlement of Crows.” Prolonged communal life had hardened these folks and they no longer knew fear.

The Golden Calf, by Ilf and Petrov

 RUSSIAN CLASSICS

“You must prepare properly… Study the booklet. There are still many blank spots in Pushkin’s life. Some things have changed since last year.”

“In Pushkin’s life?!” I asked, surprised.

Conservation Area, by Sergei Dovlatov

 RUSSIAN CLASSICS

Ostap had seen at once that, for a man without prejudice, the Drop could be a source of income.

“What a remarkable thing,” mused Ostap, “that the town has never thought of charging ten kopeks to see the Drop. It seems to be the only place where the people of Pyatigorsk allow the sightseers in free. I will remove that blemish on the town’s escutcheon and rectify the sad omission.”

And Ostap acted as his reason, instinct, and the situation at hand prompted.

He stationed himself at the entrance to the Drop and, rustling the receipt book, called out from time to time.

“Buy your tickets here, citizens. Ten kopeks. Children and servicemen free. Students, five kopeks. Non-union members, thirty kopeks!”

Twelve Chairs, by Ilf and Petrov

Transl. by John Richardson (NU Press)