The Secret of Little Bites

When we think about modes of dining in various cultures, Russia stands out for its zakuski, savory “little bites” meant to whet the appetite before the main meal. A formal zakuska table epitomizes the Russian style of dining – just think of the mouth-watering appetizer spread in Nikolai Gogol’s Dead Souls. But eater, beware! All too many guests at a Russian table mistakenly fill up on the zakuski, only to discover that the actual dinner is yet to come.

A zakuska spread can range from a few modest dishes to a show-stopping array of over 20 hot and cold plates, including elaborate preparations like whole fish bathed in aspic and – at least in the past – delicacies like meadowlark pâté. But whether humble or grand, the zakuska table is unthinkable without plenty of vodka. Hence the need for salty dishes to pique one’s thirst.

Strictly speaking, the zakuska course isn’t a Russian invention. Though its precise origins are lost to history, the idea for a set appetizer table likely traveled to Russia from Scandinavia, where a similar spread is known as the smörgåsbord. Typically Russian dishes of fish, mushrooms and vegetables were eventually embellished by the hard cheeses and cured meats Peter the Great encountered in the Netherlands. Zakuski proved well suited to the needs of the Russian gentry, especially when families were in residence on their country estates. Because visitors had to deal with bad roads and inclement weather, they would often arrive late. With a zakuska table set and ready at a moment’s notice, guests could refresh themselves immediately after their journey.

Late-nineteenth-century Russian cookbooks devote considerable space to the specifics of setting a zakuska table, and many include diagrams to make sure that the table is properly laid. If the host had enough space, a separate room was devoted to this first course; otherwise a table was set up near the door of the dining room. The table, invariably covered with a sparkling white tablecloth, was placed away from the wall so that guests could have easy access to all of its offerings. Small plates of zakuski – hot on one side, cold on the other – were set around its perimeter. Additional plates held thinly sliced bread and small buns; opposite them were plates of the very best butter, often molded into decorative shapes. Cloth napkins were artistically folded into triangles and set out in rows at the corners of the table, with the napkin points facing in different directions to create a geometric pattern. Forks and knives were placed directly on the napkins or on separate plates. Pride of place in the center of the table was given to cut-glass carafes of two or three different kinds of vodka, with shot glasses radiating out around them.

The culinary possibilities for the zakuska table are nearly endless. They include cured fish and meats of all kinds, with hot- and cold-smoked sturgeon a particular favorite. Herring of various stripes is also requisite. Other fish might include smoked salmon, sardines in oil, and anchovies. Cooked and cured meats such as tongue, ham, roast beef, headcheese, and all sorts of sausages make an appearance, as do various kinds of cheese. Marinated and salted vegetables like beets, green tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, and peppers add color and piquancy to the spread. And it goes without saying that caviar must be served, whether from sturgeon roe or salmon. In pre-Revolutionary Russia, wealthy families would offer fresh oysters on the half shell; during Soviet times enormous Kamchatka crab legs were more likely to appear. Whenever I prepare a zakuska spread for guests, I like to include smoked salmon. Instead of serving it in plain slices, I often dress up the table with the jewel-like canapés below, which always disappear fast.

Canapés of Smoked Salmon

These small bites of salmon are perfect for entertaining – they take only minutes to prepare and can be held in the refrigerator for a few hours before serving, leaving you free to enjoy your guests.

 

¼ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

6 pieces of thinly sliced black bread, cut into quarters

¼ pound smoked salmon, sliced

3 tablespoons sour cream

4 teaspoons black caviar

Parsley or dill

Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold in the horseradish. Spread each quarter of bread with some of this mixture.

Top the whipped cream with a thin slice of smoked salmon.

Top each slice of salmon with a dab of sour cream, and then sprinkle a little caviar over the sour cream, pressing down lightly so it will stay in place.

Tuck a tiny sprig of parsley or dill into the whipped cream on each square. Chill.

Yield: 2 dozen canapés.

Adapted from A Taste of Russia