A Winter Ferment

Most typical winter dishes goes under the unassuming name of kvashenaya kapusta – sour (fermented) cabbage. Ordinary and unsophisticated as it seems, this cousin to Germany’s sauerkraut can be an exotic treat to the taste buds, plus a great source of vitamin C.

In Russia, cabbage is usually fermented in November, when healthy-looking white heads travel from the farm to the stores and markets. However, timing is of no importance. The main thing is to secure cabbage that is white and fresh (avoid the greenish looking ones).

Prepare a space in the kitchen large enough to accommodate the coming mess, especially if you are making a batch larger than 10 kilos. Then you will need a large capacity urn or bucket in which to ferment the cabbage. Traditionally, Russians used oaken barrels, and this would be ideal for the purpose (and very authentic) if you have one at hand. But a large ceramic pot will do.

Line the bottom of the tub with cabbage leaves. Shred the cabbage coarsely (after removing outer leaves and the cores), as you would for coleslaw. (You can use a food processor for this, but that wouldn’t be very authentic, now would it? Why not get some exercise and use a big sharp knife, the way it has been done for centuries?)

Now, add some salt (kosher salt or regular table salt) to the chopped cabbage, working it into the cabbage as if you were kneading bread, and until the cabbage produces brine (you need about a half-pound of salt for every 20 pounds of cabbage). Then place the cabbage into your tub, layering it, if you like, with grated carrots, sour apples or cranberries, for a distinctive flavor and scent. Press the cabbage down tightly in the tub each time you add a layer.

By the time you have finished processing all the cabbage, your hands may be red and itching from the salt – if you are sensitive to this, you can use rubber gloves. Since this is a fermenting process, it is very important to seal the tub to keep air out. Cover the top of the tightly-pressed cabbage with a layer of cabbage leaves and place a weight on top, in the form of a plate that is the diameter of your pot, with a large jar of water on top. This will press the cabbage down and the water (brine) should rise up above the plate a few inches to seal the top (very important to keep out the air).

Store at room temperature for 3-4 days. When the fermentation process starts, foam will appear on top. When the cabbage is ready, the foam will have disappeared. During fermenting, pierce the cabbage daily with a sharp object down to the bottom of the tub – this lets the gases out. Refrigerate the cabbage when ready.

Sour cabbage will provide an excellent source of vitamin C throughout the winter, plus serve as an indispensable present for guests and friends.

When serving sour cabbage as a cold appetizer or a side-dish, you can add some sugar, olive oil, a finely chopped onion and some cranberries to make it even more delicious and colorful. Sour cabbage can also be used to make many other dishes, including shchi soup, which we will feature in our next issue.

– Lina Rozovskaya