Care for a drive?

With its vast expanses, natural beauty and low population density, Russia may seem at first sight, like America, made for driving. But in reality, poor roadside facilities, bizarre traffic rules, unreliable gas supplies and legendary bad roads can conspire to turn unsuspecting Westerners’ driving experiences into a living nightmare.

Added to that, city driving, especially in Moscow, can be a savage and chaotic free-for-all, spiced by arbitrary checks by GAI (traffic police). The phenomenal increase in car ownership in the capital in recent years, and the failure of the city government to address both logistical and environmental problems, tends to make Moscow’s streets at peak times a stinking, angry mess.

However much a mess there is, though, people still have to get around in it. Overcrowded public transport and the chaos that still reigns in the ‘taxi’ business, as long as they last, will ensure that the option of car rental continues to be more attractive here than in many parts of the world.

Anyone contemplating car rental has two options: a chauffeur-driven car or a self-driven car. Those who wish to experience the roads of Russia first-hand should note the following.

What you need

Bring your driver’s license, and an International Driver’s License (obtained from AAA in the US). If you do not have the latter, you may take your home license to the GlavUPDK Spetsavtotsentr in Moscow at ul. Kievskaya 8, phone 240-2092. There you will be required to take written and practical tests. If you pass you will get a license acceptable to all local rental agencies. Some major car rental firms accept foreign driver’s licenses, although you may have problems if you come from a country with left-hand drive.

Most, but not all, car rental firms provide insurance. It is therefore advisable to look into a rider to your own auto insurance policy, to include coverage for rentals in Russia. Note that some firms cover their cars for the CIS, some for Russia, and some for just the city in which they are based. In the former Soviet republics, however, policies are rarely checked, and there have even been reports of cars getting as far as Finland without difficulty.

Take care in choosing the make of car you rent, particularly if you are going for a drive in the country. Simpler European cars, like Volvos, Volkswagens and Peugeots are advisable, Japanese and American cars are not. Do not dismiss the idea of trying a Russian Lada (known inside the country as Zhiguli) — they, after all, are the best equipped for the bumpy lanes of the hinterland.

Traffic rules and accidents

The abundance of bad driving, and the open flouting of basic traffic rules, may suggest that there is little law enforcement on Russia’s roads. However, the reality is that if there is a gaishnik (traffic policeman) in sight, he will come down hard on any offenses, especially if the offender seems at all affluent. For this reason, even such basic rules as wearing a seat belt (virtually ignored by Russian drivers) should be adhered to.

It is recommended to have a detailed road map of the area you are driving through. If you are in a city, this should ideally include traffic flow diagrams, considering the abundance of one-way systems and U-turns, and the relative rarity of left turns. A good understanding of Cyrillic script and Russian road signs is another obvious plus.

If you have the misfortune to get into an accident (and it could be a BIG misfortune), the law is that none of the vehicles in the accident may be moved until a gaishnik comes around, takes measurements and writes up a report. In fact, if both parties agree who is at fault in the accident, the offender will often offer to settle the situation ‘directly’ (i.e. by paying cash for damages) to avoid a run-in with the bureaucracy and demerits on his driving record. Spurn any offer of delayed payment.

Long journeys/finding gas

If you venture on a long trip between cities or into the countryside, bear in mind that you could face problems finding gas or getting repairs. For this reason, it is wise to check parts and stock up with extra canisters of gas.

Gas stations are less prominent and less numerous than in the West, and imminent price hikes and uncertain availability can occasionally lead to long lines. Payment, except for at a few larger Moscow stations, is in cash rubles only. It is preferable to use 95 octane (obligatory for foreign-made cars) unless you have a car specially adapted for 76 octane.

Roads which in Russia are classed as major highways are, in terms of size, about the equivalent of medium class roads in the West. They are considerably worse in terms of quality. Smaller roads in remoter areas are usually unpaved and really require some form of four-wheel-drive vehicle to be negotiated effectively.

Stock up on food and drink before departing. While the growth of private enterprise has led to the appearance of roadside kiosks and cafes on most main roads in recent years, the choice of refreshments is usually poor. In many remoter areas, there is still nothing to be had.

Comparing costs

Car rental prices in Moscow and St. Petersburg are generally slightly higher than in Western countries (but cheaper than elsewhere in Eastern Europe). Expect to pay around $80-$110 for 24 hours. The top end of the market is shared by several joint venture firms (the lion’s share) and Western firms with offices in Russia, whose operations are much more limited. Smaller local firms provide services for greatly reduced prices, often at the expense of quality.

Not surprisingly, the privilege of a chauffeur pushes prices up at least two- or threefold. However, in this case, hourly charges apply (usually in the region of $20-30). So if you are planning a short trip, this may actually be the better option. And as for convenience, a chauffeur-driven car removes almost all of the problems mentioned above.

— Robert Greenall