A Russo-Finnish Delicacy

When i was in college, it was nearly impossible to get a visa for extended study in the Soviet Union. So I spent a semester at the University of Helsinki instead, figuring I could always visit Leningrad on a tourist visa. In Finland I discovered all sorts of culinary delights, including candies called Pihlaja, rowanberry-flavored fruit jellies. They soon became a favorite treat. Later that semester, when I was able to travel to Leningrad, I discovered something else: Tort Tyanushki, a luxurious caramel-glazed cake, its topping as sleek as marble. It, too, became a favorite, especially after I found it for sale in Helsinki. Little did I suspect that these two very different sweets shared a rich history.

Both were the brainchild of Karl Fazer, the founder of Finland’s great confectionery empire. The youngest son of Eduard Fazer, a Swiss émigré furrier, Karl didn’t want to follow in his father’s footsteps; against his family’s wishes, he became a confectioner. He apprenticed in Paris, Berlin and – most important for our story – St. Petersburg, where he moved in 1866. It was in Russia’s capital that Fazer discovered the marvelous array of marmelady, or fruit jellies, so beloved by Russians. They included one made from ryabina, the rowanberry, prized for its tart, musky taste. In St. Petersburg Fazer also discovered tyanushki, Russian caramel. After returning to Helsinki in 1891, Fazer opened a pastry shop in the city center, which he billed as “French Russian.” Its elegant offerings, which included a tyanushki torte (tjinuski in Finnish Swedish), were a revelation to Helsinki’s urbane population, and his business became a huge success.

Traditional Russian tyanushki is a confection similar to our soft, chewy caramels, except that it relies solely on heavy cream rather than butter. Its name comes from the Russian tyanutsa, “to stretch.” Even though tyanushki is poured rather than stretched, the etymology connects it to taffy, which is stretched to achieve the proper consistency. Old tyanushki recipes call for boiling sugar and sometimes a little honey with heavy cream until thick, then pouring it onto a slab and allowing it to thicken before being cut into pieces. Fazer adapted this traditional candy for use as a topping, turning it into the company’s signature cake.

I used to spend long hours making the cake, but these days I don’t have that kind of time. So whenever I want my tyanushki fix, I make a saucier version. In summer I pour it over fresh berries. It’s even better in winter, poured hot over frozen cranberries, offering a wonderful contrast in temperatures and textures as well as a perfect balance of tart and sweet.

Pihlaja candies and Tjinuski cake are still manufactured by Fazer and widely enjoyed (the candies, which date back to 1895, are the oldest in the company’s production). But if you Google “tyanushki,” you’ll more likely find video games than recipes – the sweet is as alluring online as in the kitchen. In “World of Goo” you can play with “legendary tianushki,” animated balls that must be maneuvered through obstacles to win. Personally, I prefer tyanushki on my plate, but perhaps the ultimate experience will be to play the game while eating the sweet – something I have yet to try.

Hot Caramel Sauce ~ Тянушки

2 cups sugar

2 cups heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)

1 vanilla bean

Frozen cranberries

Place the sugar and cream in a heavy, 4-quart saucepan. With a sharp knife slit the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the cream. Bring to a boil, stirring, and cook at a low boil for about 1 hour, until the cream turns a rich caramel color and thickens slightly. (The pan you use will determine how fast it thickens – one with less surface area will take longer to reach the right stage.) It will bubble and foam as it cooks, especially on stirring.

Place frozen cranberries in individual serving dishes, and pour the hot caramel sauce over them. (In summer you can cool it slightly to pour over fresh berries.)

Store any leftovers at room temperature. It will thicken but can easily be reheated to pouring consistency.

Makes about 1 pint.