A Taste of the Wild

Six varieties of wild Pacific salmon swim in the rivers of the Kamchatka Peninsula, many of which are still pristine. As salmon connoisseurs, the Russians have numerous names for these fish, which can make the terminology confusing for students of Russian. 

For instance, although the blanket term for “salmon” is лос≈ось, Pacific salmon actually belong to a separate genus, Oncorhynchus, and each species has its own popular name. These Pacific fish differ from the common Atlantic salmon, the сёмга, whose flesh the Russians have long prized (sixteenth-century accounts relate that Atlantic salmon was already being transported from the rivers of Karelia to the tables of the tsar). European Russians encounter the wild Pacific species less frequently, as most of the catch is commercially canned. 

Most prized is the чав≈ыча, the Chinook or king salmon, a large fish with truly succulent flesh. The кет≈а (chum) is more widespread than the king salmon, and its bright orange roe adorns many a zakuska table. (By contrast, the chum’s other English name of “dog salmon” reflects the low regard in which Americans hold this fish.) The горб≈уша, the pink or humpbacked salmon, accounts for a full 80 percent of the salmon catch on Kamchatka. Never-theless, fishermen would rather catch the н≈ерка, also known as the кр≈асная. This is sockeye salmon, distinguished by its intense red flesh and robust flavor. The к≈ижуч, by contrast, has brilliant silver scales, hence its English name of “silver salmon” or coho (it was once known in Russia as б≈елая р≈ыба). The final, and smallest, of the wild Pacific salmons is the сим≈а, known in English as “cherry salmon.”

Not surprisingly, the salmon holds very different meanings for Russians and Americans. Americans see salmon as industrious fish, most likely because they swim upriver against tremendous odds to spawn. This industriousness, as I discovered on several Internet sites that interpret dreams, means that, when an American sees a salmon in his or her dreams, it represents determination and ensures that the dreamer will overcome adversity and achieve success. Things are rather different for Russians to whom a salmon appears. The fish augurs a life filled with lasting happiness. If a girl should eat salmon in her dreams, it means she will marry a cheerful man who will give her a carefree life. 

Such happy associations sent me right to the store for some salmon. Not farm-raised, of course, since large salmon farms both pollute the environment and endanger wild species when the farmed fish escape their pens. Issues of ecology are foremost on the agenda of such groups as TINRO (the Pacific Fisheries Research Center) in Russia and the Kamchatka Salmon Biodiversity Program of the U.S.-based Wild Salmon Center. 

The depletion of wild salmon stocks on the Kamchatka Peninsula is of concern to environmentalists and fish lovers alike, since Kamchatka produces up to one-quarter of all wild Pacific salmon. Activist groups have worked hard to designate areas to protect the wild stock, and in April of this year, Governor Mikhail Mash-kovtsev of the Kam-chatka Regional Admini-stration officially created the Kol River Salmon Refuge, a headwaters-to-ocean preserve covering over 500,000 acres. (This decree partially made up for his earlier violations of protective legislation for salmon; in 2004 he was charged with authorizing unlimited salmon catches in local waters, including those in nature preserves.) New ecotourism groups, such as Wild Salmon River Expeditions, ensure continued protection of the native Pacific salmon. Several of these fish are in the Red Book of endangered species, but responsible practices are beginning to bring them back.

For a taste of salmon in the wild, try flash-freezing the fish after salting it lightly. Curing salmon this way preserves its fresh taste. Although Russians claim that the best salt to use is rock salt from the Ural region of Iletsk, kosher or pickling salt will do in a pinch. 

Fresh-Frozen 

Salted Salmon

3⁄4 pound center-cut salmon filet

2 tablespoons salt

Sprinkle the salt over the salmon filet, then place the fish in a plastic zip-loc bag. Put the bag in the freezer and set a heavy weight on it. Leave in the freezer for 3 days.

When ready to serve, rinse the salmon briefly, then pat it dry. Allow it to thaw before serving, slice very thin. (It’s easiest to slice when the fish is still slightly frozen).

Makes 6 appetizer servings. 

Adapted from A Taste of Russia