A Classic Treat

This rich, sweet dessert, which derives from Belorussian cuisine, is a classic example of cultural differences in taste. For many Americans, prunes are a tough sell, so much so that in 2000, the California Dried Plum Board got permission to label prunes as “dried plums.” They hoped to change consumer perception of prunes as something only dried-up old folks need in the form of juice every morning. Prune sales had been slipping for years, a trend that was bad for the plum growers and for California, which produces 99 percent of the US crop. The Board hoped that by renaming the fruit they would appeal to a broader swath of consumers. As their website explains: “Research conducted in the US showed that our target audience, women ages 25 to 54, responded more favorably to the name dried plums. It is also more descriptive for people who don’t know that prunes are fresh plums that have been dried.  Outside the US, the product is still called prunes.”

No such problem of either image or definition exists in Belarus, where prunes have long been appreciated for their luscious sweetness. They are especially prized in recipes that riff on the sweet and sour. But the combination of prunes and fresh cheese is not unique to Belarus—various Russian and Ukrainian recipes also combine fruit and dairy, such as in Ukraine’s famous vareniki, one version of which tops cheese-filled dumplings with sour cherry sauce.

An early record of prunes mixed with dairy can be found in Notes Upon Russia, the travelogue of the German diplomat Sigismund von Herberstein, who visited Russia in 1517 and 1526. He writes that rich, dark swan meat was often served with vinegar or a sour milk, pickles, and prunes: “When we began to eat the roast swans, they placed vinegar on the table with salt and pepper mixed in it, which they used instead of sauce or gravy. Sour milk was also placed on the table for the same purpose, with pickled cucumbers, and prunes cooked with the same object, which are not removed during dinner time.”

To modern tastes, fresh cheese, or tvorog, is much more appealing than sour milk, though both have their place in the kitchen. Tvorog is one of the glories of Russian cuisine. It stands midway between cottage cheese and ricotta, but has a wonderfully sour tang. The best substitute in the States is farmer’s cheese, which won’t separate when heated, though if you have access to raw milk it’s easy enough to make your own tvorog at home.

The 1952 edition of the classic Soviet cookbook, The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food, includes a recipe for prunes with tvorog, which is billed as lechebnoe pitanie, or healthful food, because it is so calorific (lots of calories was considered a good thing then). The dish is also healthful because tvorog is so rich in calcium and protein, and prunes are so high in fiber. To make the dessert even more nutritious, the editors suggest adding farina (Cream of Wheat) and an egg yolk to the tvorog, and they recommend pouring slightly reduced sour cream over the baked prunes. I find those additions to be overkill. Much more to my taste is the recipe at right, which makes a simple but elegant dessert, admittedly high in calories, but worth every bite.

Prunes Stuffed with Cheese

Чернослив, фаршированный творогом

For a dramatic presentation, heat the brandy in a small pan and light it, then pour it flaming over the prunes.

½ pound pitted prunes

½ pound farmer’s cheese or homemade tvorog (recipe below)

4 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons plum brandy

Pour boiling water over the prunes and soak them, covered, until they have swelled. Drain and dry on paper towels.

Mix the farmer’s cheese with the sugar. Fill the prunes with the sweetened cheese, using a pastry bag or a spoon.

Preheat the oven to 350º F. Place the prunes in a lightly greased baking dish. Sprinkle the walnuts over them, then bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the plum brandy. Serve hot.

Serves 6.

Homemade Farmer’s Cheese (Tvorog)

1 quart raw milk

1 quart heavy cream

In a large saucepan, heat the milk and cream together gently, and, when just warm, pour into a glass bowl. Place the bowl in a warm spot and let the mixture stand, uncovered, for 24 hours, until curds have formed and a watery liquid appears at the bottom of the bowl. (Don’t let the milk sit out for more than 24 hours or it will take on a bitter taste.) Strain the milk through cheesecloth set in a fine-mesh strainer. Discard the whey.

Place the cheesecloth-lined strainer over a bowl and place in the refrigerator. Allow the curds to drip for a few more hours, until they are dry. Transfer the tvorog to a clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap.

Makes about 1½ pounds.

Adapted from A Taste of Russia