Travel Notes

In the former worker’s paradise, transporting the masses was a priority. The attention given to this aspect of life is still very much in evidence. Most Russian cities are well served by an extensive network of buses, trams, trolleys, and (in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Novosibirsk, Nizhny Novgorod, and Samara), subway stations. The advantage to the tourist of taking urban transit is that it is often faster, tremendously cheaper, and a good cultural experience for those who are seeking it. Among the disadvantages are the chance of getting lost (it’s not English-language friendly), and during rush hour and on weekends, overcrowded stations and vehicles can resemble a rugby scrum.

Nonetheless, if you have enough familiarity with the Russian alphabet to decipher station names (this can be learned on the plane ride over) and a sense of adventure, public transportation in Russia is highly recommended.

By bus, tram, and trolley

For the uninitiated, above-ground transportation can be difficult. Most locals don’t even know routes that they don’t take every day. There are no printed routes in vehicles, and only indistinct verbal announcements (if the driver feels like saying anything) herald upcoming stops. Buying tickets is also difficult for first-timers and non Russian-speakers. Unless you are on a lark, know the route, or are with someone who does, it’s best to stick to the metro where there is one.

Follow the big 

The Moscow metro (ÏÂÚ≈≈Ó) is probably the world’s grandest, arguably the most efficient (with trains running every 1-2 minutes at peak hours), and definitely the most crowded (serving over 8 million passengers a day – more than London and New York combined). Marble, mosaics, precious stones, and stained glass – each of Moscow’s approx. 147 metro stations is an architectural showpiece in its own right. Whether you choose to use it or not, drop into a few stations, especially Kievskaya, Mayakovskaya, Ploschad Revolutsiy, and Novoslobodskaya. For a self-tour, just ride full-circle on the ring line, popping out along the way.

St. Petersburg’s younger metro isn’t as grand or extensive, but is world-class nonetheless. Provincial metros are more functional, and usually consist of only one or two lines. In Moscow and St. Petersburg especially, anyone meeting in the city fixes a metro station for their rendezvous.

Practical Information

The first thing you’ll need is a metro map. Your guidebook should have one, or ask at any hotel service bureau (there are also usually maps on the walls of station entrances and trains). If you don’t know the Cyrillic alphabet, try to get your hands on a bi-lingual map, so you can match up names at stations. You won’t readily find an English-speaker for help.

Metro stations are indicated from the street by a red-neon letter ‘M.’ Entrances are marked ‚ıÓ‰ (vkhod) and exits ‚˚ıÓ‰ (vykhod). Once through the doors, you must buy a metro token ( ÚÓÌ — zheton) at the kassa (͇ÒÒ‡), which will be visible just past the doors. Then proceed to the turnstiles, drop the token in the slot, and walk through. The price for each trip is now R1,500 (about 35 cents), regardless of length. If you know you’ll be traveling frequently, buy a bunch at one time.

Once through the turnstile, follow the signs to the right platform. Russian metro cars have a cruising speed of up to 50 mph. As you arrive at each station, its name and the name of connecting stations will be announced. If you can’t follow the announcements, be sure to count the stops to your destination. 

When you exit a train, follow the signs that read ‚˚ıÓ‰ ‚ „ÓÓ‰ (exit to city) if you want out. If you are changing lines, follow the signs that read ÔÂÂıÓ‰ (cross-over). 

I’ll just take a taxi...

Okay, this sounds a bit difficult. You’re going to opt for the convenient route. But the taxi question in today’s Russia is a complicated one. So complicated, in fact, that the issue requires separate treatment altogether. Tune in next month.

– Scott McDonald

Metro etiquette

Norms of behavior on Russia’s overburdened public transport systems might best be described as contrasting parallels. On the one hand, there exists a complex of highly refined protocols for users. On the other hand, the systems are often so overcrowded, that all civility is subsumed by the sheer mass of riders. 

Depending on the hour, you may find yourself squeezed, pushed, compressed, and finally spit out at your destination. Relax and don’t take it personally. No Russian will. It’s just how the system continues to work under stress. Following are the general rules of behavior for riding the metro, still adhered to, though less frequently:

• Always stand to the right on escalators. Pass on the left.
• When preparing to board a train, stand to the side and allow exiting passengers out. Then board.
• When there are not enough seats to go around, seating priority is given to senior citizens, pregnant women, women with children, and the disabled.
• If you are seated on a full train, not in one of these categories, and someone who is gets on, you should stand up and offer your seat (or risk disapproving stares).
• These rules also apply to above-ground transport (minus the escalator).

As each station approaches, disembarking passengers will move towards the door. You should do the same. If it’s not your stop, allow people through. Don’t panic in crowded cars, just push past firmly (but not too). For a light-hearted treatment of public transport lingo turn to our Survival Russian feature on page 19.

Travel Briefs

‘Rabbit’ season

Last year, just under a million fare evaders (nicknamed ‘hares’ in Russia) were caught by controllers on Moscow’s commuter railways, bringing the government over R4.3 mn (just under $1 mn) in fines. In comparison, 795,000 were caught in 1994. This figure does not include those caught with forged passes, who are much more difficult to detect, or those not caught by infrequent controllers (the vast majority). Commuter train ticket prices rose over three-fold in 1995. Moskovsky Komsomolets.

Aeroflot and Uncle Sam

The US government is to provide a loan of $1 billion to Russia’s main international airline, Aeroflot, to build a new fleet of airliners. The new planes — consisting of jet engines from US firm Pratt & Whitney, electronics from Rockwell International, and Russian-made IL-96 bodies — are to be built in the Russian city of Voronezh. The deal is expected to give a powerful boost to the ailing Russian aircraft industry. As part of the same agreement, a 30% import tariff on aircraft will be sharply reduced,  giving US manufacturers like Boeing and McDonnell Douglas easier access to the Russian market.

New $95 bill

The introduction of new $100 bills by the US government has caused some concern among Russian citizens,  who hold an estimated $15-30 bn in cash savings, 80% in $100 bills. This concern arises from the Russian government’s record with its own new bills, the introduction of which has on several occasions coincided with the old being rendered worthless. In response, the Russian Central Bank has required all exchange points to accept old bills for the next 8 years. However, it is likely that Russian banks will impose a commission of up to 5% for buying old notes, a measure that US Treasury officials in Moscow agreed was justified.

VIP treatment

City fair trading authorities have discovered serious violations at the VIP lounge of Moscow’s international Sheremetevo II airport. Investigators found that staff had been cheating customers by underweighing portions, serving out-dated products, and selling unlicensed cigarettes and alcohol. Six staffers were disciplined and the companies involved were fined a total of over 17 mn rubles. Moskovsky Komsomolets.

Safety Tips

Public transport in Russia is quite safe.
As always, awareness and common sense are paramount.
Here are some tips from frequent metro users:

• Don’t ride in empty metro cars at night. Stick to the middle cars.
• Sit far from obviously drunk people.
• Don’t speak loudly in a foreign language or otherwise attract attention.
• Never fall asleep while riding late at night.
• Keep your money in front or inside pockets. Keep bags and purses in front of you.
• Stand near platform walls while you wait for metro trains.
• Don’t wear flashy jewelry or carry expensive items with you.