Rolling into Spring

As we were getting this issue of Russian Life ready to go to press, in February, it was still winter. Yet the days were already getting longer and there was promise in the air of spring and renewal.

By the time you receive this issue, in March, Russian citizens will be about to renew the mandate of President Vladimir Putin for another four years. At least that is what the polls tell us to expect: 79% of those who plan to vote on Sunday, March 14, say they will cast their votes in favor of the president (see page 64).

In February the election promised a complete lack of flavor and intrigue. No televised debates between Candidate Number One and his “opponents” have yet been scheduled, and they should not be expected. Why should Putin waste his time sparring with the bizarre candidates propped up to oppose him? Like, for instance, the ex-pugilist Oleg Malyshkin. The Liberal Democrats’ Clown in Chief, Vladimir Zhirinovsky, chose not to run for president this time around, sending Malyshkin, his dim but faithful ex-bodyguard, into the ring to take the beating instead. Communist Party leader Gennady Zyuganov is also opting out of the race, with communist Nikolai Kharitonov carrying the banner of Lenin’s heirs (polling a whopping 2-3% support at press time).

In fact, the only thing that has any chance of keeping local observers from falling asleep watching this election is the fact that a large portion of registered voters may not show up, having assumed that the president will be reelected whether they go to the polls or not. Only 48% of respondents to a January VTsIOM-A survey said that they would definitely vote.

In our effort to make a few small waves on the deathly calm ocean of this election, we asked Victor Shenderovich, a famous satirist who has long lampooned anyone who clambers up Russia’s political Olympus, to tell us what he thought about the coming elections. It turns out he is already worried about 2008 (page 20).

Meanwhile, with spring just around the corner, we bid farewell to winter with the tale of Nicholas Allen’s intrepid visit to the Coldest Village on Earth, in Siberia (page 38).

The chill of Siberia probably loomed all too large for Russia’s infamous oligarchs. Some have fled to warmer climes (taking along their cash, of course), and none are taking the active role in presidential politics they did in 1996 and 2000. Long time Moscow reporter, Eric Helque, who has watched the reality show that is the Lives of the Oligarchs for several years, recounts (page 22) the reasons for this sea change. Notably, as this issue went to press, some oligarchs were facing criminal charges, while one spent $90-120 million to purchase the legendary Forbes collection of Fabergé eggs, to return them to Russia.

Speaking of returning to Russia: it is time for our annual Summer Travel Guide. This year, we explore the cheaper and more authentic options for travel across Russia (page 29), and join our traveling skeptic, Ilya Stogoff, for the last leg of his travels in the Russian Far East and Siberia (page 43). As these two stories show (as does Nick Allen’s trip to Oymyakon), the variety of travel experience within Russia is as broad as the country itself.

We also feature in this issue two nice historical pieces: a micro-level history of a single monument (page 57), and a macro-level portrait of ancient maps of Russia (page 48).

Finally, about the time this issue arrives in your hands, it will be the birthday of one of my favorite Russian writers – Fazil Iskander. Iskander is from Abkhazia, a beautiful but unfortunate land, site recently of conflict. Don’t miss Galina Yuzefovich’s nostalgic essay (page 14).

Happy (Russian) Women’s Day (a.k.a. International Women’s Day, March 8) and enjoy the issue!