A Tender Tartar Dish

T

he word shashlyk comes from the Russian word shashka—sword, for the implement first used to skewer the lamb kebabs. Shashlyk is a centuries-old dish in Russia.  Though Marc Fontenelle, Executive Chef at the Moscow Marriott restaurant Avrora, believes in tradition, he also likes to experiment with it, adding his own modern touch.

“If you want to change a meal,” Fontenelle says, “you need to convince people why you want to make the change. For example, if you use less butter than usual in a classic Russian recipe, you need to explain why you don’t use so much: because it’s better for the health.”

In this, the second of our Tartar recipes (the first was Kaymak with Wafers, in the May/June 2000 issue), we asked Fontenelle to share his recipe for Shashlyk à la Tartar. While it might seem odd to turn to a Belgian chef working in Moscow to get a recipe for something every Russian family cooks, his recipe offers a creative twist on this old dish. These days most Russians use pork instead of lamb for their shashlyk – it cooks faster and is usually cheaper.  But here Fontenelle sticks with tradition and uses lamb, because it is tastier and more tender.  Not surprisingly, Russians (like Americans), have the expression “tender as a little lamb—ÌÂ ˚È Í‡Í fl„ÌfiÌÓ˜ÂÍ. 

Fontenelle presents his shashlyk with a Georgian plum sauce, Tkemali, which contributes a nice sweet-and-sour flavor.  He also offers pickled vegetables and an innovative potato cake. Here, then, is Fontenelle’s Russian recipe with a Georgian/French twist. Enjoy!

(Recipe courtesy Avrora Restaurant, Moscow)

Marinade

3/4 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 lb. boneless leg of lamb, in 2” cubes

2 medium onions, cut into chunks

2 medium red or green bell peppers, cut into chunks

Plum sauce

1 tbsp. corn oil

1 pound fresh plums, pitted and coarsely chopped

1 medium tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tbsp. finely chopped cilantro

Salt, pepper, and hot pepper sauce to taste

Pickled vegetables (available at Russian or Italian groceries)

1 lb. potatoes 

1 cup finely chopped parsley

2 tbsp butter

Salt to taste

In a non-reactive bowl mix together the vegetable oil, vinegar, and pepper.  Marinate the meat in this mixture overnight (or for at least 2 hours).

Prepare the sauce. Place the corn oil, plums, tomato, garlic, and cilantro in a small saucepan. Simmer for about an hour, until thick. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce.

To make the potato cakes, peel and finely grate the potatoes.  Mix the potatoes with the parsley, adding salt to taste.  Preheat the oven to 350o F.  

Melt the butter in a round, 10-12 inch ovenproof pan. Press the potato mixture into the pan, forming a “cake” the size of the pan. Place the pan in the oven and bake the potato cake until browned and crisp on top, yet creamy on the inside—about 30 minutes. Cut into portions to serve.

While the potato cake is baking, thread the pieces of meat, onions and bell pepper alternately onto metal or bamboo skewers. Rub the vegetables lightly with oil and season everything with salt and pepper. Grill the skewers over an open flame until nicely browned.

Serve the shashlyk with the plum sauce, the potato cake and the pickled vegetables. 

Serves four.