Little Russia by the Sea

Some 185 years ago, the Russian-American Company founded Fort Ross, its southern-most settlement in North America. The fort’s site, which is located near the Russian River (then the Slavyanka), about one hundred miles north of San Francisco, was acquired from local Kashaya Pomo Indians for “three blankets, three pairs of breeches, two axes, three hoes, and some beads.” It was formally dedicated on August 13, 1812. Just a month later, on the other side of the world, Russian forces would face Napoleon at the Battle of Borodino.

The fort was founded to support trade in sea otter pelts, which were extraordinarily valuable in trade with China. Most of the hunting (ranging the entire coast of present-day California and Oregon) was done by native Alaskans from Kodiak island, who were in the service of the Russian-American Company (and lived in a village just outside the fort’s walls). Within eight years, however, the sea otter population was so depleted that the main economic activities at the fort became agriculture and animal husbandry. Unfortunately, climate, location and the flagging desire of hunters-turned-farmers led to failure.

By the late 1830s, the Russian-American Company was starting to pull back from the Pacific Northwest. In December 1841, the fort was sold to John Sutter, of Sutter’s Fort. There was a succession of owners and, in 1906, the site was turned over to the State of California for preservation and renovation as an historic monument.

The majority of the fort’s structures are built of local redwood, using joinery techniques typical of 19th century maritime carpentry. The Chapel was the first Russian Orthodox structure in North America (outside Alaska). The fort’s buildings have suffered from the ravages of time, earthquakes and fire, and most have been rebuilt during this century.

Very few Russians actually lived at the fort, and intermarriage between Russians and Alaskan and Californian natives was common. Thus, 185 years on, the region retains a bit of its Russian heritage. Not only are there many Russian surnames in the area, but there is also a local farming community named Sebastopol, the Russian River, and numerous Orthodox Russian churches.

The last weekend in July, Fort Ross hosts Living History Days, when volunteers and park personnel dress in attire of the early 19th century, cook Russian dishes, do carpentry, spin wool and perform Russian music. At the high point of the day, a trading ship arrives in the little harbor as if from China. Cannon salutes are exchanged with the fort and the captain is welcomed with toasting all around. Typically, some 1000 visitors come to the fort over these two days (which is when photographer R.C. Hall took these shots). The site is also a draw for traveling Russians. Park managers report that hardly a day goes by without a group of Russian tourists passing through. The fort is open year round. The Chapel is used for Orthodox Services on Memorial Day and the Fourth of July.

For more information, contact the Fort Ross Interpretive Association, 19005 Coast Hwy 1, Jenner, CA 95450, ph. 707-847-3437.