Honoring a noble fish

U

nlike the ancient Greeks, who deemed fish plebian, Russians honor fish in their cuisine, from the mundane herring to the “noble” salmon and sturgeon. So it should come as no surprise that fish frequently appears in Russian folklore. The cunning pike is a hero in many fairy tales. Hence the proverb, “na to i shchuka v more, shtob karas’ ne dremal”—the pike is in the sea to keep the carp awake. In other words, there should always be someone to keep you on your toes.

But not all fish associations are positive. If you’re trying hard, but in vain, you’re “like a fish hitting itself against the ice” (kak ryba ob lyod). And someone whose eyes lack any spark of intellect or creativity is said to have “fish eyes” (ryb’i glaza). 

But then it is taste, not intellect, that is important in fish. And if you want fine-tasting fish, the noble salmon and sturgeon are the way to go. Here we combine sturgeon with a sauce based on that most Russian of soups, borshch. This elegant recipe is courtesy of the master chef at Moscow’s Renaissance hotel. 

Pan Roasted Sturgeon 

2 lbs. sturgeon steaks

2 tbsp. vegetable oil

Compote

1 cup peeled and diced pumpkin (or winter squash)

1 cup peeled and diced potato

4 tbsp. vegetable oil

1/2 lb. mushrooms, such as portabello or crimini, sliced 

1 tbsp. curry powder

1 tbsp. honey

1 tbsp. finely chopped cilantro

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

Borshch Vinaigrette

2 cups prepared borshch

1/4 cup beef stock or canned beef broth

2 tbsp. red wine vinegar

2 tbsp. potato starch

3 tbsp. cold water

Garnish

1 small red beet

1/4 lb. bacon

4 tbsp. snipped fresh chives

4 tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves

1/4 cup frisée lettuce

First, make the Compote: Saute the pumpkin and potatoes over medium heat in 2 tablespoons of the oil until they begin to turn golden and soften, about 10 minutes.  Then add the mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes more, stirring. Add the curry powder and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 5 to 8  minutes longer, stirring occasionally.  Stir in the honey and cilantro, cook for another minute or so, then remove from the heat.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Set aside.

While the vegetables are cooking, boil the beet in a separate pot in salted water to cover until tender, about 30 minutes.  Run the beet under cold water to cool, then drain.  Peel the beet and dice it.  Set aside.

Coarsely chop the bacon and cook it until crisp.  Drain on paper towels.

Next, prepare the Vinaigrette: Pour the borshch into a medium pan, then add the beef stock and red wine vinegar.  Bring to a boil, then simmer the sauce until it has reduced by one-third. Dissolve the potato starch in the cold water, then whisk this mixture into the sauce.  Continue to cook until the sauce thickens slightly.  Season with salt and pepper. 

To prepare the Fish, preheat the oven to 400*C. Meanwhile, heat the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in an ovenproof skillet and add the sturgeon.  Sear the steaks over medium-high heat for 2 minutes on each side, then place the skillet in the oven.  Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or just until the fish flakes.

To assemble the dish, place the vegetable compote on a serving platter and top it with the sturgeon.  Spoon the sauce around the plate and garnish the fish with the diced beet, bacon, herbs, and greens, forming a pyramid in the center.

Serves 4.