Unknown Moscow

Moscow, in spite of and perhaps because of all its economic and industrial hugeness, is certainly capable of concealing the more than occasional weird and wonderful oddity. So Russian Life decided to turn to its three experts for their lists of Unknown Moscow sites worth visiting.

Robert Greenall: My favorites include the home of the great constructivist architect Melnikov just off the Arbat. Made of two concrete cylinders cut into each other and dotted with hexagonal windows, it was built in 1927, one of the last bursts of individualism before Moscow was engulfed in Stalinist monumentalism.

The charming Old Believer’s Church in Tokmakov pereulok (metro Baumanskaya), in the East of the city, was another last gasp, this of the art nouveau style forgotten by war and revolution a decade earlier. Its unusual exterior, with a triangular roof raised on pillars above the church itself, reflects the oddness of the Pomorye sect which used it, worshipping without priests or altars and hanging their icons all round the walls.

For a less serious diversion, visit the Hippodrome race track, not far from Belorussky Train Station. There you can bet on sulky races (horse-drawn carts) surrounded by grandious, Empire-style architecture (reconstructed in the 1950s after a fire, but originally built in 1899). In nearby Begovaya alley, there is an archway with horses designed by Klodt, who also crafted the horses sculptures on St. Petersburg’s famous Anichkov bridge.

Finally, seekers of obscure pleasures should make their way to the All-Russian Exhibition Center (VVTs), where they should head left from the main gates to the wonderful Round Panoramic Cinema, a 1950s oddity which, the Russians say, beat Walt Disney to the punch. The screen stretches 360 degrees round the walls and a nine-track stereo sound system is blasted at you from all directions. Films were horribly expensive to make, requiring eleven cameras working simultaneously from a special platform. Only four films were ever made, about travel in the Soviet Union in the ‘Good Old Days’. If you can avoid neck strain, they offer a wonderful insight into film as a propaganda weapon of the Soviet state. Stirred with thoughts of heroic Soviet youth, the intrepid explorer should head to the back of the complex, past the fairy tale Domestic Services pavilion and into the Botanical Gardens. Amid the rather chaotic and abandoned greenery, he should seek out the Japanese Garden, where he can contemplate amid the carefully tended lawns and shrubs and prefab pavilions of fragrant oriental wood.

Athol Yates: The places I love in Moscow are those which have two histories: a communist one and the “truth.” Researching them is like being a detective, as you never know for sure which version of the “truth” to believe. There are dozens of such places in Moscow and the following are three of my favorite ones.

The Kremlin wall grave of Field Marshal Mitrofan Nedelin, commander-in-chief of the Strategic Rocket Forces. According to Soviet history, he died bravely on the spacepad during the launch of the first Mars probe in 1960. However, if anything, he should have been buried in disgrace, for he was personally responsible for the deaths of dozens of the Soviet Union’s finest rocket engineers and scientists.

During the fateful launch, the main rocket engines did not ignite. But, rather than draining the rocket’s fuel and relaunching it after the problem was rectified, Nedelin ordered technicians to rectify the problem immediately. Unfortunately, the timer of the interplanetary stage of the rocket was still counting down, and, after 90 minutes, attempted to separate. The tons of kerosene in the first stage ignited, leaving behind charred body parts and a leveled launch pad. Nedelin died immediately. Even today, it is not know how much of his remains are in the wall.

The Leninsky Gory (Lenin Hills) metro station, which is still on metro maps despite being closed for years, has a interesting past. The station was built in record time and opened with a fanfare heralding Soviet construction “brilliance.” However, it was quietly closed shortly afterwards. The reason for this is that, when it was being built, a salt-based additive was added to the concrete, so that it would set quickly. Unfortunately, as a side effect, the salt started eating into the concrete’s steel reinforcement and the rail authorities had no choice but to close the station for safety reasons.

The small and unkempt Kosmodemyanskikh Square features a crumbling monument to Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya (1923-1941) and her brother Aleksandr (1925-1945). During the Soviet era, Zoya was one of the Soviet Union’s most famous Second World War partisan-martyrs. In 1941, as the Nazis were closing in on Moscow, Zoya and dozens of other young students were given a few days military training, a rifle and a handful of grenades, and dropped behind enemy lines just 90 km west of Moscow. Despite her bravery, she was quickly captured, interrogated and hung while shouting, “Stalin will come.” Unfortunately, the truth is far darker than the propaganda. First, Zoya had a death wish, as she saw the ultimate sacrifice as the only way to overcome her family’s “suspect” stigma resulting from her father’s arrest during the Stalin purges. Second, the military sent Zoya even though they knew it was pointless. The area in which she was dropped offered no cover. Therefore, her only purpose was to delay the Germans by requiring them to round up her and her fellow teenage partisans. Strangely, so revered were Zoya and Aleksandr, that the house in which they last lived was knocked down and this square was built on the site.

Neil McGowan: Although it’s not really “hidden,” it was only after 11 years of visiting Moscow that someone put me onto the Gorky Museum, also known as “Ryabushinsky’s House.” It’s a wonderful example of Style Moderne, designed by Shchektel. It was commissioned by Stepan Ryabushinsky, heir to the Tsarist-era massive banking empire, and a devout member of the Old Believers sect.

The top floor (which is genuinely “hidden” as it’s not open – but the willing Museum Staff will usually take you up there if you ask) has a secret Old Believers Chapel. But the truly impressive details are on the Ground Floor, which is a  harmonized design in which Shchektel designed not only the building, but the furniture, the fabrics and notably the amazing “seascape” staircase.

Shchektel was a visionary architect, although few people seem to know he also designed Moscow’s Yaroslavsky Station, and its exact twin at the other end of the Trans-Siberian Route. He completed the Ryabushinsky House in 1902, but, after the Revolution, his work was condemned, and he died a pauper in 1926.

The building was presented to author Maxim Gorky in the 1930s, and he lived there until his death (allegedly poisoned by Stalin’s agents).

Opening Times: 10:00-17:00 Thu, Sat & Sun.  12:00-19:00 Wed & Fri. Closed Mon & Tue. Address: ul Kachalova 6, building 2 (but the entrance is actually through the garden at the side, from ul. Spiridonovka).

The peaceful low-rise area of Bronnaya and Patriarch’s Ponds is a few blocks stroll away – a hidden oasis of calm in the city center, and a must for Bulgakov fans. Don’t slip in the patch of sunflower oil...

If you’re planning a trip to Moscow in the near future, chances are you’ve made a list of things to bring. Well, start crossing off. Gone are the days of suitcases full of toilet paper and deodorant, cigarettes and perfume samples. Russian travel agents are now telling visitors —whether for business or pleasure — to travel light.

Five years ago, Jan Passoff, Director of Moscow’s Traveller’s Guest House, advised foreign visitors to bring with them “as much as their luggage could take.” Now, he said, everything is available in the Russian capital.

Intourservice’s Tatiana Soloveva agreed. “Moscow has it all. Just head to the metro.” Indeed, a typical metro station contains kiosks selling everything from pet food to water filters. And even if you get nostalgic for obscure items like pop tarts or gummy bears, chances are that one of the city’s numerous western-style supermarkets can satisfy your craving.

For the business traveller, it’s possible to buy or rent pagers and mobile phones. Or if you’re here for a longer stay or to set up a business, office space, computers and copy machines are also available for rent or sale.

Sound like heaven? Well, there may be a few things that should stay on that list. General Director of Super-Nova Travel Services, Olga Solovyova said that some medicines are still impossible to find and advises her clients to bring an ample supply of prescription drugs. She also reminds prospective visitors that “May in Moscow is not May in California” and suggested that they pack warm clothes, even in summer.

Also, remember that all these conveniences come at a price. Moscow is rapidly becoming one of the most expensive cities in the world. Don’t feel like shelling out $10 for a bottle of contact lens solution? Then bring a supply with you. The same goes for makeup and clothing.

And of course, if your destination is more remote — Magadan, say, or Krasnodar — you might want to pack a little more substantially. Times are changing fast, but it never hurts to be prepared.

– Anna Hoare

Robert Greenall lives in London, is former managing editor of Russian Life and has written two books on travel to Russia (Explorer’s Guide to Russia and Explorer’s Guide to Moscow). Athol Yates lives in Australia and is an expert on Russian railroads. He is author of Russia by Rail and the Siberian BAM Rail Guide. Neil McGowan lives in England and is the proprietor of The Russia Experience Ltd. He has been organizing travel to Russia and Eastern Europe for over 16 years.