The Taxi's Last Stand

The taxi's last stand

Last month, we looked at the ins and outs of public transport in Russia. This month, we give special attention to the short-term traveler's most likely mode of intra-city transport Ñ the taxi.

The current taxi situation in Russia is perhaps unique in the world: on the streets of Russia's major cities, there is simultaneously a shortage of official taxis and a surplus of potential rides. To take advantage of this, however, you have to understand the situation and know how to make it work for you. Otherwise, you may find yourself waiting 45 minutes for a bright yellow Moscow Taxi.

Signs of the times

In Soviet times, there were plenty of taxis on the streets. The problem was getting one to stop. The Soviet cab driver was paid the same whether he had one fare or a hundred, so only a conspicuously-proffered deficit good was likely to bring him around to his official duties.

Today privatization, inflation, and rising prices have made driving and maintaining taxis no longer economically viable. Only a fraction of Russia's state-owned taxis still ply the streets. Almost none use the meter. On the other hand, finding a ride from the curbside has never been easier. The same factors that have conspired to erode the taxi industry have forced private drivers to offer rides to supplement their income by offering rides to strangers.

Of course, if you are setting out from a hotel, you can always book a hotel car with the concierge. This route is safe and convenient, but also very overpriced, and you will still have the return trip to think about. So for the stranded, the hurried, the economical, and the adventurous, here is the lowdown on taxiing Russian style.

Do like Lenin...

Or at least like his statues. Hailing a car is as easy as standing on or just off the curb, and holding your arm out at a 60 degree angle (a favorite Lenin statue pose). There is no need to look for anything in particular, chastniki (private cabbies) will find you. As a matter of fact, if the street is a busy one, you are likely to have three lined up and waiting for you in a first-come, first-served frenzy (at night you can even expect off-duty ambulances or buses to stop). This makes for a riders’ market, so do not settle for an exorbitant fare or anything else you are not comfortable with. There is always another car.

^{Of course, there are a number of factors that will decide how easily you find a ride and how much you pay. In general, Moscow fares are higher than in St. Petersburg, which are, in turn, higher than in other cities. Distance will be the number one price factor, but fares also depend on the time of day (the later at night, the higher), the type of car, where you are picked up from (high traffic or tourist area?) where you and your driver happen to be headed, the weather, traffic density, how fast you want to go, and of course your nationality and language ability.}

A great deal depends on who picks you up. Some drivers are on the prowl, others just trying to make some gas or bread money along the way. Fares quoted by drivers for the same ride can vary by as much as 800% . But there are some general guidelines. These days it is hard to get anywhere for less than R10,000 (just over $2). This is a standard price for short rides, though very short rides of convenience can be had for R5,000. A ride from one city quadrant to another will run from R15,000-20,000 ($3-$4), and a ride across town generally $5-$6. Dollars will be accepted reluctantly if at all (your driver wants to spend this small amount of money, not wait in line to exchange it at a bank), so be prepared to pay in rubles. And have exact change: your driver, coincidentally, will not.

The system is chaotic and unorthodox, but it works. Finding a ride in Russia has never been easier, and prices are still reasonable. But two private taxi companies have recently sprung up in Moscow, and city mayors across Russia are laboring to revive a traditional, regulated system in their cities, so if you want to experience the current system in transition, you had better hurry. Then again, there is probably plenty of time.

For a list of insider and safety tips, see our Taxi Savvy inset box.

{Inset box}:

Taxi Savvy

Following is a compilation of taxi riding tips from frequent travelers and Russia-based expatriates.

• Cars waiting in front of hotels, train stations, and airports charge very inflated prices and usually have dubious affiliations. if you find yourself at one of these places and want to pay much less, walk around the corner, out of sight, and hail a car there.
• If you do not speak any Russian, do not expect the driver to speak any foreign languages. Try to learn Russian numbers, the word ñêîëüêî (skol'ko - how much?) and how to pronounce your destination. In the alternative, holding up fingers will work.
• If you are with a Russian friend or colleague, let them do the flagging and the talking. They are more likely to get a better price.
• Know the best driving route to your destination (study a map if you have to). Cross the street or go around the corner if that will place you in the path of the most direct route to your destination.
• If you have several places to go, try offering to pay by the hour. Ask around about the current rates.
• If you are not in a hurry and do not like the price you are quoted, close the car door and hail another. Agree on a price before entering the car, and do not be afraid to haggle or turn down a ride.
• Set aside your fare money in a separate pocket ahead of time. Do not display large wads of cash, especially hard currency.
• Women alone, especially at night, might want to call for an official taxi, which are required to post driver identification in the car. Hotel taxis are also quite safe.
• If your driver looks like a hooligan, do not assume it is the occupation. Send him on.
• Never get into a car with more than one passenger. NEVER!
• Look carefully in the back seat for partners hidden under a blanket.
• Never allow the driver to stop for groceries or cigarettes along the way.
• Upon exiting the car, always double-check that you have left nothing behind. If you do, it is gone.
• Most importantly, relax and enjoy the game.