Sep/Oct 2018 Current Moscow Time: 16:12:01
26 September 2018

  The world’s biggest country, in a magazine. Since 1956.


Author: Darya Grebenshchikova
Translation: Liv Bliss
Illustrations/Images by Asya Lisina

Sep/Oct 2017
Rural Life
Page 39   ( 3 pages)

Summary: “On Saturdays, smoke drifts over the village. The banyas are being heated.” Let’s go!


On Saturdays, smoke drifts over the village. The banyas are being heated. The bitter haze, from birch or aspen, floats everywhere. The old folks have the black banyas, the ones without a chimney and just a pile of stones in the middle, to serve as a stove that’s heated until the stones glow red, and you mustn’t go in then because the air’s so bad you can’t even breathe. Then they open it up, but the fumes stick around so the darn place is like a smoke-house. They get going bright and early, and that’s the only way to do it. There’s a teensy little window, so you can’t see a thing in there, not even in broad daylight.

The oldest in the family – which would be granddad or even great-granddad – always gets to enjoy the first steam. And when mystical, magical Ivan Kupala Day is coming up, in early June, he’ll gather herbs to dry too, muttering his spells over them. He’ll collect potentilla root, rowanberry leaves, cocklebur, the sticky catchfly that makes your fingers all gummy, and angelica root that’s sweetish to the taste, so for sharpness he’ll grind some juniper needles in a pestle. The women do their bit as well, for the hair-washing part of it, collecting soapwort, whose pale, whitish little flowers sort of lather when you rub them between your fingers. In the villages, people use potash to wash their hair, by sifting out the ashes and boiling up what’s left. And there’s your shampoo, there’s your soap. As for rinsing, well, it varies – some like to steep a birch-twig switch in the rinse water, others prefer oak. But everyone steams with burdock, because no one has ever found anything better than burdock, better than its soft leaves and beetroot-colored burrs. It’s all floated in a basin, and the pale water turns brownish. And the fibrous bark is torn off linden trees and plaited, and that takes some tearing, believe you me. But then again, the work makes you sweat like mad, which is a load off the body…

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